One revolves around duration, and the other around inertia. I have found two schools of thought when it comes to this debate. Routing the wire to the rear fork isn’t terribly difficult, just more effort than routing it to the front fork. You’ll need to run it down either your bottom tube or your top tube, get it to your rear fork, and then make sure you don’t have too much at the end.ĭon’t let that keep you from doing it though. However, running the wire for that sensor can be a bit more difficult than if it were on the front fork. Mounting the sensor on the rear fork allows you to still get speed and distance data while you are using a trainer. ![]() So, you’ll need to wrap the wire around a cable or your fork enough times to use up the entire distance. The only problem is that a kit will give you enough wire to go all the way to the rear fork. It is much easier to route a wire to the front fork than it is to route it to the rear fork. Putting the sensor on the front wheel is good for keeping things simple. However, each does lend itself to its own specific scenarios, especially for a wired sensor. There is no discernible difference between speed and distance readings whether you have your sensor on your front or rear wheel. From there the computer can give you other statistics like average speed and average speed. That gives you how fast the bike is going, and how far you’ve gone. Once it knows how the wheel is rotating, it multiplies that by how far the bike moves during one rotation. The computer will keep track of when the sensor triggers and uses that information to keep track of how fast and how many times the wheel has rotated while you are riding. The sensor is designed to detect when the magnetic field around it changes from low to high. The computer senses speed using two components, a magnet, usually mounted to a spoke on a wheel, and a magnet sensor, usually mounted on the front or rear fork. They should be very close when one passes by the other. If your computer isn’t reading anything at all, check the magnet and the sensor. However, there are some best practices that are good to follow. Whether you pick the front or rear fork, one end of a spoke or the other, it won’t make a big difference in your speed and distance results. So, how do you properly mount and position a bike computer’s sensor to make sure this doesn’t happen? ![]() While we can always stop a ride to fix the problem once we notice, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Better yet is looking down and seeing that it thinks your 20 mile ride was only 5 miles long. I am sure that looking down at a bike computer while on a ride and seeing that it thinks you aren’t moving at all isn’t a unique experience.
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